Sword Maintenance

What Referees Check

At a competition the referee can give a yellow card for each infringement of the fencer’s weapon. Remember that two yellow cards become a red card and a point to the opposition before the bout has started.

They will check that the two tip screws - called grub screws - are in place and secure. These stop the tip from falling out. If these snap or dislodge, they are usually impossible to locate on the floor as they are tiny, and if both of them go, the weapon tip and springs will fall off (often ejecting quite a distance).

• The barrel should not be loose.
• Blade wire is not detaching from the blade.
• No bare wire is showing on the blade.
• The wires feeding into the front socket are correctly positioned and secure.
• The grip is secure.
• The blade should be clean from rust to reduce the likelihood of grounding.

Pre-competition Checks

It is important that the different makes of blades have some uniformity to ensure everyone is on the same playing field. The referee may conduct two types of tests, the Weight and Shims tests.

Weight Test

The pressure on the point to complete the electrical circuit, (to score a point), must be more than 750 grams. This means the pressure spring must be able to lift 750 grams. The referee will place the weight on the tip and push down making the light on the box come on. The light should then go off as the pressure spring raises the weight. If it does not, the light remains and the test is failed.

This is to prevent a fencer scoring with a light touch instead of the required level of force.

Shims Test

The Big Shims test is to show that the total distance the tip must to score a point is 1.5mm. This is the distance between the underneath of the tip and the top of the barrel. If this was less the fencer would have an advantage over their opponent in scoring a point which would not be fair.

If it fails it is probably due to the pressure spring has become weak or compacted. The spring can be gently stretched but it probably requires a new one.

The Little Shims test checks that the residual travel is 0.5mm between the tip and the barrel. This is to check that the contact spring is not resting on the two contact pins.

If it fails the contact spring may need to be gently wound back half a rotation at a time into the base of the tip. Be careful as the spring cannot be unwound if wound up to much.

To ensure that the tip is not sitting crooked in the barrel rotate the tester around the tip whilst it is depressed.

Basic Equipment to Carry

The below can be sourced from the fencer suppliers, hardware stores and charity shops.

• Tin or small case
• Magnetised 2mm slotted screwdriver for the grub screws
• Magnetised 5 to 10mm slotted screwdriver for the socket screws
• Gauge
• Weight 750 grams
• Abrasion block or wire wool (not Brillo pads with soap!) to remove rust spots
• 6mm alum key to tighten the grip
• 6mm spanner to tighten the barrel
• Bag of spare parts (tip, pressure spring, residual spring, grub screws, and washers)
• Insulator tubing
• Long-nosed pliers

Anatomy of an Epee Point

The basics by Katrina Cass.

Every fencer should have a basic understanding of how their weapon is put together and how it works. The following diagrams and explanations should clarify terms, so that anyone can easily maintain and repair their weapons.

The Epee Tip

Point Diagram from "Orde's Epee Repair Manual"

An epee consists of a few main parts: the tip, the blade, the wire and the guard. Let’s take a look at it from the tip down.

When the tip is depressed, it is resisted by the pressure spring. If there is enough pressure, the contact spring connects with the contacts and a circuit is completed, resulting in the box registering a hit.

You will mainly be concerned with the tip, tip screws, contact and pressure springs, and the barrel.